{"id":2665,"date":"2015-05-19T17:37:04","date_gmt":"2015-05-19T15:37:04","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.youthemploymentdecade.org\/?p=2665"},"modified":"2015-05-20T17:56:40","modified_gmt":"2015-05-20T15:56:40","slug":"another-type-of-fashion-is-possible-young-designers-are-waging-their-own-battle-against-the-snares-of-low-cost-clothing","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/www.youthemploymentdecade.org\/es\/repor\/another-type-of-fashion-is-possible-young-designers-are-waging-their-own-battle-against-the-snares-of-low-cost-clothing\/","title":{"rendered":"Otra moda es posible. J\u00f3venes dise\u00f1adores libran su propia batalla contra las ‘trampas’ de la ropa low cost"},"content":{"rendered":"

<\/p>\n

Des<\/span>de que en 2005 la Uni\u00f3n Europea levant\u00f3 las restricciones a la importaci\u00f3n de textiles desde China a la ropa de Zara, cuyo nombre estuvo vinculado durante a\u00f1os a la moda low cost, le salieron competidores de debajo de las piedras, que aunque no lograron arrebatarle el trono, s\u00ed se quedaron con una buena parte del pastel del negocio de la ropa barata.<\/p>\n

Junto con Inditex (Zara, Mango, Lefties, etc), firmas como Primark (Irlanda), Kiabi (Francia), H&M (Suecia), o Okeysi (China) se reparten los beneficios y tambi\u00e9n las sospechas del millonario universo low cost. Porque la moda barata est\u00e1 cosida con el hilo de la pol\u00e9mica, avivada tras el derrumbe hace dos a\u00f1os del edificio Rana Plaza en Bangladesh, que alojaba cinco talleres textiles y en el que murieron 1134 personas.<\/p>\n

Aquel desastre puso sobre la mesa las condiciones de trabajo que permiten fabricar millones de prendas a un coste m\u00ednimo para que sean vendidas en tiendas de Europa o Estados Unidos. Entre los escombros de aquel edificio, seg\u00fan organizaciones humanitarias, aparecieron etiquetas de Primark, Wal Mart, El Corte Ingl\u00e9s o Mango.<\/p>\n

\"Comme<\/a>La moda en tercera dimensi\u00f3n<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cLa industria de la moda ha sido una verdadera porquer\u00eda, con un mont\u00f3n de subcontrataciones ubicadas en diferentes partes del mundo en donde se emplea mano de obra barata, incluso infantil, y con materiales y procesos perjudiciales para el medio ambiente\u201d, se\u00f1ala indignada Aran Azkarate, una joven dise\u00f1adora que junto con el tambi\u00e9n dise\u00f1ador Andr\u00e9s Iglesias, fund\u00f3 hace dos a\u00f1os Commes de Machines<\/a>, una peque\u00f1a empresa que fabrica fornituras, collares, pulseras, etiquetas y sellos para prendas. Las piezas, que ven la luz gracias a las impresoras 3D que han construido ellos mismos, est\u00e1n hechas con PLA, un pol\u00edmero muy vers\u00e1til y biodegradable constituido por mol\u00e9culas de \u00e1cido l\u00e1ctico que se encuentran en el ma\u00edz, el trigo o la remolacha. Con la idea en la cabeza de que es posible hacer ropa de forma sostenible, local y con precios competitivos, Azkarate e Iglesias, adem\u00e1s de dise\u00f1ar y fabricar, prestan asesor\u00edas a otros j\u00f3venes dise\u00f1adores que se plantean otro modelo de producci\u00f3n.<\/p>\n

\"Attakontu\"<\/a><\/p>\n

El arte hecho camiseta<\/strong><\/p>\n

En la misma l\u00ednea, Ibai Le\u00f3n y Sara Campillo se animaron a crear su propia firma de ropa tras terminar la carrera de Bellas Artes y estar becados en diferentes centros de producci\u00f3n art\u00edstica, como Bilbao Arte o Arteleku (Donostia). El resultado es \u00c4ttakontu, un tienda-taller en la que se dise\u00f1an, cortan, confeccionan y estampan todas las prendas. \u201cLa gente valora mucho que nuestra producci\u00f3n sea nacional, que se cumpla con un est\u00e1ndares de calidad en los materiales y que se garantice la dignidad laboral a quienes lo hacemos\u201d, indica Le\u00f3n, que utiliza materias primas nacionales, como algodones org\u00e1nicos y fibras naturales.<\/p>\n

El resultado final no es solo una camiseta o una sudadera, sino otra forma de entender la moda. Desde los talleres de \u00c4ttakontu, que estrena local en verano en la calle Jardines del Casco Viejo de Bilbao, Campillo y Le\u00f3n env\u00edan sus creaciones a Madrid, Barcelona, Zaragoza, Logro\u00f1o, Asturias y Zarautz, e imparten talleres de estampaci\u00f3n y serigraf\u00eda.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Internet, el escaparate infinito<\/strong><\/p>\n

\u201cTener todo el proceso de producci\u00f3n dentro del pa\u00eds es lo m\u00e1s complicado para los peque\u00f1os dise\u00f1adores\u201d, se\u00f1alan Aitor y Gorka Antxia, dos hermanos que empezaron a trabajar\"Antxia\"<\/a> juntos en una colecci\u00f3n para Getxo Moda en 2014, y ya van por la cuarta. Dise\u00f1os frescos, coloridos, y una ropa f\u00e1cil de llevar es lo que destacan de sus creaciones, pero tambi\u00e9n el hecho de trabajar con talleres nacionales, aunque esto suponga elevar los costos de producci\u00f3n. \u201cSi env\u00edas un dise\u00f1o a un artesano de costura, en un taller donde solo trabajan dos personas, esa prenda tardar\u00e1 un tiempo en hacerse. Mientras que en India, China, Vietnam o Marruecos la producci\u00f3n es m\u00e1s r\u00e1pida, pero menos cuidada…ah\u00ed tienes una chaqueta en media hora, aqu\u00ed no\u201d, afirman.<\/p>\n

Con un taller en su casa en Deusto y una intensa actividad Facebook y otras redes sociales, la firma Antxia<\/a> poco a poco ha empezado a hacerse un hueco en el mundo de la moda. \u201cEstamos preparando todav\u00eda la tienda online, pero en nuestra web pueden verse los dise\u00f1os y los detalles para ponernos en contacto con los clientes\u201d, apunta Aitor, el hermano mayor.<\/p>\n

Mientras que para la peque\u00f1a tienda de ropa Internet ha supuesto que las ventas se reduzcan porque los clientes encuentran m\u00e1s variedad y precios m\u00e1s competitivos en las tiendas online, las peque\u00f1as firmas de dise\u00f1o no podr\u00edan sobrevivir fuera del ciberespacio. Internet es el escaparate para estos j\u00f3venes dise\u00f1adores, pero adem\u00e1s es la manera de relacionarse con otras empresas del sector, de estar en contacto con sus clientes, de informarse de las tendencias y buscar distribuidores.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n

<\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Desde que en 2005 la Uni\u00f3n Europea levant\u00f3 las restricciones a la importaci\u00f3n de textiles desde China a la ropa de Zara, cuyo nombre estuvo …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":2672,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_jetpack_newsletter_access":"","_jetpack_dont_email_post_to_subs":false,"_jetpack_newsletter_tier_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paywalled_content":false,"_jetpack_feature_clip_id":0,"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":"","jetpack_post_was_ever_published":false},"categories":[10],"tags":[49,142,53,80,354],"class_list":["post-2665","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-repor","tag-empleo-juvenil","tag-employment","tag-empresas","tag-jobs","tag-moda"],"yoast_head":"\nAnother type of fashion is possible. 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